The Estate Collection Vol. 7 - Edwardian Clover Brooch and Necklace
In the earlier years of King Edward VII’s reign, jewellers started to use platinum in their work. Prior to that, white metal jewellery was only possible with silver. Platinum was a much-appreciated technological advancement in the fine jewellery world because the properties of platinum allowed for untarnished whiteness, which was previously unattainable.
A new monarch and the much-anticipated changes of the fin de siècle did not result in big aesthetic changes to the fine jewellery world. Rather, much of what was desired and beautiful during the Edwardian era was a continuation of the themes from the late 19th Century; a refinement of the art, if you may, presenting itself through more delicate openwork made possible with the use of platinum.
And this brooch encapsulates the zeitgeist perfectly with its asymmetrical yet fluid lines - a desire for naturalistic and feminine forms. Throughout King Edward’s reign, this aesthetic would be the major theme for fine jewellery.
Choo Yilin Edwardian Clover Brooch and Necklace
Choo Yilin Necklace with Type A Jadeite and pearl beads
This particular piece of jewellery was purchased from a then 80-year-old London-based curator with more than 50 years of experience in the antique world. Remarkably, despite its advanced age of over 120 years, it maintained a beautiful sheen and whiteness of platinum. (Most times, antiques need to undergo a fair bit of rehabilitation before it is shown to their former glory.)
The piece has been kept in its original form of a brooch. In the spirit of marrying the old with the new and the west with the east, Type A Jadeite and pearl beads have been strung and knotted with silk cord, and attached as a detachable necklace.
“The swirls and gentle curves were a reminder of the Peranakan shophouse motifs I grew up with and adored. It was a reminder again of how cultures that oftentimes we think of as completely separate share deep similarities and have likely influenced each other in ways that are not immediately obvious. ”
This piece is part of a digital gallery exhibition and is not currently available for purchase.
The Estate Collection encompasses antique jewellery pieces thoughtfully restored to reflect our stories across time and continents — to honour history, to shape the present, and to hold space for what’s yet to unfold. Each piece is the only one of its kind in the world.
Read about The Estate collection and our founder's thoughts for more.