Everything You Need to Know about Old Mine Cut Diamonds

1. What is an Old Cut Diamond? 

As its name suggests, Old Cut diamonds refer to any diamond cutting style that predates the modern brilliant cut, which emerged in the mid-1950s. These cuts were meticulously crafted by hand, most commonly during the Georgian (1714–1837), Victorian (1837–1901), and Edwardian (1901–1910) eras. They are distinguished by their larger, more irregular facets and a softer, candlelit brilliance — a romantic glow reminiscent of bygone times.

While there are many variations of Old Cut diamonds, two cuts have retained enduring popularity: the Old Mine Cut and the Old European Cut. Each boasts its own charm and historical significance, offering a connection to the artisanal craftsmanship of earlier eras.

 

2. How are they different from modern cut diamonds? 

The key distinction lies in the craftsmanship. Modern cut diamonds are precision-cut by machines, resulting in flawless symmetry and uniformity. Old Cut diamonds, however, were lovingly shaped by hand — a reflection of the artistry and individuality of their era. This hand-cutting technique gives each stone its own distinctive character, with larger, more irregular facets that create a softer, romantic brilliance. The subtle asymmetry of Old Cut diamonds tells a story of craftsmanship from a time when perfection was measured in uniqueness rather than precision.

For a more thorough take on this, please visit our guide on purchasing Old Mine Cut Diamonds. 


3. How are CHOO YILIN’S old cut diamonds sourced? 

We source our old cut diamonds — primarily Old Mine Cut and Old European Cut diamonds — from highly respected specialists in Europe and USA specialising in antique and estate jewellery. Many of these trusted partners are multigenerational family businesses that have been in the field for decades, with some tracing their expertise back over 170 years. 

Choo Yilin’s vault of Old Mine Cut Diamonds


4. Why doES CHOO YILIN prefer old cut diamonds over modern cut diamonds? 

At Choo Yilin, history and heritage are deeply woven into our brand’s DNA. We are passionate about jewellery that tells stories and carries the legacy of generations past. Old Mine Cut diamonds embody this spirit, making them a natural choice for our designs.

  1. Storytelling Through History: Every Old Mine Cut diamond carries the essence of the era in which it was crafted, reflecting the artistry and traditions of the 18th and 19th centuries. Just as we honor cultural heritage through jade, we find that old cut diamonds are a tangible link to history.

  2. Hand-Cut Artistry: We love Old Mine Cuts for their individuality. Each stone is hand-cut, with no two diamonds visually alike — just like the Type A jade bangles we source. This uniqueness offers a beauty rooted in imperfection and authenticity, qualities we deeply cherish.

  3. Romantic Glow: Unlike the engineered sparkle of modern cuts, Old Mine Cuts have a softer, more natural radiance reminiscent of candlelight. This understated elegance speaks to our love for timeless, meaningful design.

For us, Old Mine Cut diamonds are more than just beautiful stones — they’re storytellers, steeped in history, artistry, and individuality, aligning perfectly with the essence of Choo Yilin.


5. Are you saying Old Mine Cut diamonds are better than Modern Cut Diamonds? 

Not at all. While we adore Old Mine Cut Diamonds, we recognise they may not be the ideal choice for everyone. Here are instances where an Old Mine Cut diamond may not be suitable:

  • Seeking Maximum Brilliance: Old Mine Cut Diamonds reflect a softer, more diffused light compared to the sharper, more dazzling brilliance of modern Brilliant Cuts. For those who prioritise maximum sparkle under all lighting conditions, a modern cut may be more appropriate.

  • Preference for Precision and Symmetry: Old Mine Cuts often display charming asymmetry and organic shapes, reflecting their hand-crafted nature. However, customers desiring a highly symmetrical and precisely cut diamond may prefer a modern Round, Princess, or Cushion Cut.

  • Emphasis on Size Appearance: Old Mine Cut Diamonds are cut to preserve weight rather than maximise surface area, which may result in a smaller face-up appearance compared to modern cuts of the same carat weight. If size perception is a priority, modern cuts like Oval or Round may offer a larger visual spread.

Old Mine Cut Diamonds are ideal for those who cherish an old-world aesthetic, but they may not be the best fit for everyone. 


6. Besides The Old Cut Diamond Ring No. IX, does Choo Yilin have any other Old Mine Cut rings? 

At present, The Old Cut Diamond Ring No. IX is the only piece we have in 3D. However, we’re delighted to share our never-seen-before 2D renderings of Old Mine Cut rings, thoughtfully designed to capture the romance and heritage these stones embody.

Each piece takes up to 18 months to create — a journey of meticulous craftsmanship and storytelling. While these designs aren’t likely to be launched as part of our ready-to-wear collections anytime soon, they may be brought to life through bespoke projects. We hope these illustrations inspire you as much as they do us.


7. How can I buy The Old Cut Diamond Ring No. IX?

This beloved piece is currently sold out. If you’d like to be the first to know when it becomes available again, we invite you to join our mailing list.


8. WHAT ARE SOME historical examples of beautiful Old Mine Cut Rings?

Oh, you’re in for a treat. We are, quite simply, in awe of the master artisans who came before us — their craftsmanship and artistry laid the foundation for everything we do today.

Exploring historical Old Mine Cut rings feels like stepping back in time, marvelling at the romance, heritage, and stories these pieces hold.
— Yilin Choo

We hope you enjoy this glimpse into the past as much as we do — it’s a celebration of the legacy that continues to inspire our work today.


9. What is the value of old cut diamonds vs. modern cut diamonds? 

Old Cut diamonds, such as Old Mine Cuts, differ from Modern Cut diamonds in several key ways that influence their value. Their rarity and historical significance, rooted in hand-cut craftsmanship from bygone eras, make them highly sought after. They also offer eco-conscious appeal as vintage stones, requiring no new mining. Their soft sparkle and aesthetics contrast with the precise brilliance of Modern Cuts, making them ideal for collectors who value individuality, history, and artistry. This growing demand, coupled with their finite supply, enhances their potential for long-term appreciation.

You may read more here if you’d like an expanded version of this.


10. If Old Cut Diamonds are so great, why don’t we see more of it on the market? 

The scarcity of Old Cut diamonds lies at the heart of their allure. These treasures were primarily hand-cut in the 18th and 19th centuries, long before the advent of modern cutting techniques. Unlike Modern Brilliant diamonds, which are mass-produced today, Old Cuts are a finite resource — many have been lost to time, recut into contemporary shapes, or remain cherished in private collections.

This rarity, coupled with their rich historical significance, makes Old Cut diamonds highly coveted by collectors and connoisseurs. Their scarcity adds to their mystique and timeless charm, making each stone a true celebration of heritage and artistry.


11. How doES CHOO YILIN ascertain the authenticity of the diamonds? 

Apart from only buying from trusted dealers, we collaborate with trusted third-party gemologists. Here are some of the key factors these professionals focus on during the selection process:

  • Cut Characteristics: Old Mine and Old European Cuts are distinguished by high crowns, small tables, large open culets, and less symmetrical facets — hallmarks of the hand-cutting techniques of their eras. These details speak to the artisanal craftsmanship behind each stone.

  • Inclusions and Natural Imperfections: Antique diamonds often feature natural inclusions or characteristics that reflect their age and history, adding to their unique charm. Unlike modern diamonds, these traits are part of the stone’s story.

  • Provenance: The history of the diamond is just as important as the stone itself. Whenever possible, we trace each diamond’s origins, particularly when sourced from antique dealers or estate sales, to ensure authenticity.

For diamonds over a certain size, we partner with a gemmologist — typically GIA — for certification to ensure authenticity.


12. What size of old cut diamonds do you recommend? 

This is a highly personal choice, and there is no right answer. The most popular sizes for Old Mine Cut diamonds historically in engagement rings tend to follow historical and modern trends.

If you’d like to read a more detailed take on this, please read this


13. how I can commission Old Mine Cut Diamond rings with Choo Yilin?

If you’d like to explore creating a bespoke piece, you may sign up here. Please note that bespoke projects outside of our Digital Trunk Show timings require a minimum starting cost of USD 9,000 to proceed.

Due to the highly personalised nature of these projects and the amount of time required for each project, we have limited spaces available. We kindly seek your understanding that we may not be able to accommodate most requests.

We look forward to the possibility of working with you to bring your vision to life.